If you stand in the center of the Hagia Sophia here and gaze upward at what is one of the world’s tallest domes, you can be staggered by the overlapping layers of ruination and grandeur in this Church of Holy Wisdom. And I don’t just mean the scaling paint, the scaffolding promising overdue restorations, the haunting mosaics disclosed under layers of plaster.The article goes on to describe the juxtaposition of religious and secular life in modern Istanbul through its museums. While I didn't have enough time to really absorb this aspect of Istanbul myself, I noticed superficial differences in women's clothing choices and the way that life stopped--or didn't--during prayer time. This juxtaposition was also obvious in Topaki Palace, where I came face-to-face with all sorts of religious artifacts in a secular museum that seemed more like a place of worship than a museum: respectful, quiet behavior was expected and prayers were recited live over loudspeakers. Here's what the Times says about it:
You can see the nature of the problem in the museums of Topaki Palace, where the sultans once lived. In one gallery there are sacred relics once viewed only by the royal family and its guests. The labels tell us we are looking at hairs from Muhammad’s beard, the staff that Moses used to strike a rock in the desert, King David’s sword and a turban worn by Joseph. Secularism has to be more powerful than it is here to contend with such objects (let alone examine them for authenticity).Turkey's struggle with secularism was motivated by a desire for independence from Islam's political structures after WWI rather than striving to be more like the Western world. That being said, what I find the most interesting about secularism in Turkey is the way it throws light on Western--and, in particular, American--norms.
Its these ingrained, unspoken values that help us relate to other people. I'm hoping that, when I come away from this year, the bit I've picked up from the British election season, Turkish secularism, lunchtime discussions about social welfare funding and the like will help me relate better to friends and collegues by making me more aware of my own cultural norms.
The full article is here:
http://www.nytimes.com/2010/05/26/arts/design/26museums.html?th&emc=th